SAMi HERITAGE TRIP TO UZBEKISTAN: WALKING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF OUR ANCESTORS

On September 4 - 11th 2022, a group of 20 Jewish Young Professionals embarked on a journey from JFK to Tashkent Airport for a once in a lifetime experience: a heritage trip to Uzbekistan. This trip was organized by SAMi: Sephardic American Mizrahi Initiative and was expertly led by Manashe Khaimov, founder and CEO of SAMi and Adjunct professor of Bukharian Jewish History and Culture and Queens College. SAMi serves as a central hub for Sephardic Jewish life on campuses and their local communities in the US, but in Uzbekistan SAMi is the well oiled machine guiding young American Jews to find their connection to a proud Jewry with history spanning across the centuries.

In just seven short days the adventure took the group through Tashkent, Bukhara, and Samarkand. The participants experienced the Jewish areas by foot, bus, and train. Fully immersed in the history originating centuries prior, Manashe painted the picture of Jewish life in ancient times and how it transformed to adapt to the challenges of historical waves stemming from the waves of immigration during the destruction of the First and Second Temple in Jerusalem, all the way to the collapse of the Iron Curtain and beyond. Participants visited Bukharian Jewish cemeteries, synagogues, and Jewish Mahalya’s (Jewish Quarters) and explored other tourist attractions of Uzbekistan.

The group was fascinated to explore the rich culture that was once thriving in these lands as they entered the well preserved synagogues in pure amazement. One of the synagogues that participants had an opportunity to visit was the Bukharian Jewish Synagogue of Bukhara. It is hard to describe the electricity in the air in holy places like this. The interior of the synagogue was ornate. It was a feast for the eyes to look around at the gilded menorahs (a sacred candelabrum with seven branches used in the ancient temple in Jerusalem) and Magen Davids (Star of David) on display on the walls. A rich burgundy and gold color scheme on the furniture and floor felt like a reminder of the strong and beautiful community that it once held. Here, the group managed to have a prayer service of 10 men (minyan - a quorum of ten men needed to pray). Abraam Itshakov, the Director of the Synagogue, led the prayer services as the chazan (cantor) with a voice that radiated off the high ceilings and columns and gave everyone the chills. It was symbolic to be able to be there and imagine what it would have been like to be a part of that synagogue many years ago when thousands of Bukharian Jews still lived in the Jewish Quarter of Bukhara. 

When the group finally arrived in the city of Samarkand, they were all pleasantly surprised by the amazing warm welcome of an ensemble of Karnay and Surnay, which is the real Samarkand way of greeting guests. This type of an ensemble may have been seen at the entrance or courtyard of the Emir of Bukhara. The SAMi group truly felt the wonderful hospitality of Samarkand the moment they stepped off that bus! 

The SAMi group visited the Samarkand Jewish Mahalya (Quarter) on Friday. In that mahalya is the Bukharian Jewish Synagogue named Gumbaz (meaning ‘dome’ in Farsi), which was built in the late 19th century. Some of the group members were reminiscing about their childhood in that synagogue. Manashe Khaimov himself would say that he remembers riding his bike there and how for the high holidays the synagogue would be packed full of congregants. The synagogue had beautiful carved wooden doors upon entry, a large white menorah, photos of many Rabbis, as well as 2 huge blue stars of David on the ceiling. Once you actually enter the synagogue you will see the magnificent blue dome and architecture. 

Caroline, a member from the group who lives in Los Angeles said, “Now is the month of Elul. We have the opportunity to reflect on everything we have done in this past year. This Elul,  we were able to look back thousands of years and trace the footsteps of our ancestors to this very moment”. Another member of the group from New York, Sara, said “I’m a Bukharian  Jew, and was born in Samarkand. These words will forever hold a new meaning and a sense of ownership which links the past to the future for myself and for many men and women who have participated in this memorable and invigorating experience. I felt like I was part of a film where centuries old traditions, values, and family ties passed before my eyes as we explored ancient Bukhara, the city streets of Tashkent, and the footsteps up to my old homeland of Samarkand. …. I am grateful for this once in a lifetime experience which was granted to me by SAMi. May G-d bless the organizers who have given us all this amazing opportunity which is bridging the gap for so many people who may have forgotten what unites them as a part of a community of what intrinsically makes them who they are.”

The trip was truly a trip of a lifetime, and many have had a transformative experience like never before. There were mashgichim ensuring our Kosher meals throughout our entire trip and that was the selling point for many young professionals provided by Albert Binyaminov. The trip ended with a surprise performance by Mardon Mavlyanov, national artist of Tajikistan and Uzbekistan and created the intergenerational connection with youngsters and their parents and grandparents. 

“I am always amazed to see how Young Professionals decide to take an opportunity to invest in their Heritage and Identity strengthening. I believe that memories and storytelling are the most important Bukharian Jewish traits. Knowing where we come from establishes a right path to go forward. Cherishing our past is what kept us going and made us survive in Central Asia despite all of the wars and dynasties that went through that region while being on the outskirts of the rest of the Jewish world”. said Manashe Khaimov

By Zack Zav, Regional Director SAMi Philadelphia